Patterns for sewing Viking era clothes

I also have a page with patterns for Viking shoes

NOTE: MAKE A MUSLIN PATTERN FIRST!!! It's easier (and cheaper) to make necessary alterations/adjustments with a muslin pattern and you have a pattern for future use.

The cloth should be wool or linen. HINT: large tableclothes are good source for linen. Try looking in 2nd hand shops, Goodwills etc.

(to make a Tunic, measure from the shoulder to the knee, rather than to the ankle.)

1.Measure from shoulder to shoulder and then take the tape measure and measure around the chest. 1/2 the chest measurement should be close to the shoulder to shoulder measurement. Use the larger measurement. Take the shoulder to shoulder measurement and add 1/2" - 1" seam allowance on both sides ( up to 2" if you desire). This is the width that you want to use. For example, for a child that has a shoulder to shoulder measurement of 15" and a chest of 26", you would use a piece of fabric 16" - 17" inches wide. Because 1/2 the chest measurement is 13", you would use the shoulder to shoulder plus seam allowance.

2. Now, measure from the top of the shoulder to the knee or ankle depending on whether you're making a tunic or kirtle. This is the length of the garment. if you're cutting the tunic/kirtle in one piece and therefore having no shoulder seams, double the length and note the top of the shoulder. Also to make walking easier, flair the dress from the knees to the hem. You could also put in gussets, if you're adventurous. The tunic could be flared from waist to knees ( and with or without gussets).

3. Now, you have the basic sleeveless tunic/dress. Mark out a circle approximately 4"-6" in diameter, lying across the shoulders with about 4 inches of it on the side that you want to use as the front.

4. Mark a 4"-6" slit down the front from the circle. This is the front opening. Finish the front in one of two ways:

A. Simply cut out the circle and front opening slit and sew bias tape over the edges.
OR
B. Cut out a keyhole-shaped piece of fabric large enough to extend about 2 inches around the neck hole and front opening slit. Sew this to the outside of the tunic, right sides together, sewing about 1/4" inch from the edge of the neck opening and turn it through the opening and turn it through the opening to the inside of the fabric. Now, turn over the bottom edge of the facing and sew along it to prevent fraying. An alternative to this (and less time) is to zig-zag along the bottom edge without turning under and then apply Fray-Check to the edges. After this is done, tack the facing down at the shoulders to prevent it from flipping up.

5. If sleeves are to be added, take the following measurements:
LENGTH: Long sleeves: measure from shoulder to wrist 3/4 sleeves (elbow length): measure from shoulder to elbow Short sleeves: measure from shoulder to middle of upper arm
WIDTH: Start with the measurement around your shoulder and then measure around your upper arm, elbow and wrist for long sleeves. For shorter sleeves, do the same except stop measuring at the appropriate place. For example, if you wanted 3/4 length sleeves, you would measure around your shoulder, upper arm and elbow. Mark out the measurements adding 3"-6" for ease and seam allowance. The 3"-6" allows the sleeve to be snug or blousey. Taper from shoulder to wrist ( or elbow or upper arm). You should have an inverted trapezoid shape. Now lay the sleeve pattern out with the bottom edge on the sleeve edge of the fabric (the finished edge). if you do this, you won't have to hem the bonom sleeve edges. You may want a drawstring casing for drawstring sleeve heming.

6. Hem bottom of tunic or dress. Add decoration(s) such as trim or embroidery as desired.

If you've made a tunic, you will need to make breeches, too. To do this, take the following measurements:

A. Measure from waist to mid-calf (or ankle, if ankle length). Add 2" for the hem.

B. Measure of circumference of thigh at crotch

C. Measure from waist to crotch. Add 2" at top for waist drawstring

D. Measure widest part of hips (remember this is for one half of the breeches. If you measure AROUND your hips divide by two.)

E. Measure crotch from front waist under crotch to waist back. Add 4".
The width is pretty much "cut to fit", but try starting with 3 1/2 - 4 inches. It should be narrow enough that it doesn't bunch up and rub and wide enough to sit down without worrying about being arrested for indecent exposure. The piece is as much to hold the two halves together at the waistband without having to overlap them as it is anything else.
I suggest just pinning the muslin pattern together and then, starting with it slightly wider than you think it should be, cut it down until it's comfortable and still (mostly) concealing.
Many Thanks to MAC for pointing out the (previous) ommision of the width.

Draw measurements A-D on muslin. You should have an elongated hexagon (see illustration). Make two of them, one for each leg.

Think of the breeches as a pair of chaps. The open crotch, covered with the inset sewn onto the waistband front and back (remember the tunic comes to the knee so you won't hang out :-) ) means that you will never be caught with your pants down!

Sew the inset to the breeches along the waistband in the front (don't sew the crotch shut) and back. This is what holds the two legs togeather. Then sew the side seams down the inside of the leg. Make drawstring casing by folding over 1" at top and then fold over another 1" and stitch close to edge. Pull drawstring through and hem pant legs.

If you've made a dress, you will need to make an apron. You will need two rectangles, one for the front and one for the back plus two straps. For the apron rectangles, measure the width you want. This is usually 9" - 12". Add 2" for turning and finishing. The length is determined by how long you desire the apron to be. Measurement is usually from the collarbone to ankle. Add 2" to the length for turning and finishing. Now, turn under 1" on all sides of the two rectangles on the wrong side of the fabric and press using a warm iron. Turn under another 1" and press again. Sew along the outer edge of the turning seam. Now measure from the collarbone to the middle of the shoulder blade. This is the length of the strap. Add 1" to the length. The width of the strap is generally 1 1/2"- 2" plus 1 1/2" - 1" for seam allowance. Fold each strap in half lengthwise and sew a seam down the long side. When you reach the end, turn the fabric and sew ONE short side. The other short side needs to be left open so you can turn the straps right side out. After you turn the straps, sew them to the apron front and back.

The other article of clothing which was essential was the cloak. This was very simple a square or rectangle of cloth in the width and length desired, usually as wide and as long as the person. It, too, was decorated in trim and/or embroidery if the person was wealthy