Olive Biot Nymph
Hook: TMC 100 or TMC 5210, sizes #16-24 (this one is TMC 100, size 18)
Thread: Black 8/0
Tail: Olive grizzly saddle hackle
Body: Olive goose biot
Wingcase: Olive goose biot
Thorax: Peacock herl
Legs: (optional) small starling breast feather
Tying Instructions:
The only trick here is the orientation of the biot. Tie in a tail of saddle
hackle and bring the thread to the rear of the hook.
Looking at the base (wide end) of the biot, you'll notice a notch in one
side. Holding the biot so that the notch faces the front of the fly (eye
end), tie in the tip (pointed end).
Holding the biot with hackle pliers and being careful not to twist it, wrap
it forward to the thorax. You'll notice that the upturned edge of the biot
forms a rib. (if not, back up and start again - either the notch is not
pointing to the front or it got twisted).
Tie off the biot at the thorax. Trim excess.
Tie in a second biot on top of the hook, with the base over the eye of the
hook, the tip pointing back over the tail and the notch toward you (assuming
you're right handed). Trim off the excess at the base.
Tie in a peacock herl at the back of the thorax and wrap forward, then tie
off.
Fold biot forward to form a wing case. Tie off and trim.
Whip finish and lacquer threads.
Background:
This fly is based on Bob Rembert's BT (Biot Tied) Nymph as presented in
the Fall 1988 issue of American Angler and Fly Tyer magazine (pp. 58-59).
Rembert discusses the value of biots in all sorts of tying situations, especially
producing a naturally ribbed body on small nymphs. The article discusses
a brown nymph using brown saddle hackle, a mahogony brown biot for the body,
a black biot for the wing case, dark olive brown dubbing for the thorax
and starling feathers for legs. I prefer to use ostrich herl in the brown
pattern and peacock herl in the olive and black versions for the thorax.
And I just don't like legs on small nymphs.
I find that these work well fished just below the surface on greased line.
Rod Forth (rdforth@cybergate.org)