Articulated Damselfly Nymph

This pattern was taught to me at an Arizona Flycasters intermediate fly tying class back in Spring '95. The fly is built in two sections with a joint in the center to allow a swimming motion while the fly is stripped through the water. The forward shank section is built using steel wire bent to form loop ends. Fish it in the same manner you would any damselfly nymph pattern, sush as slowly stripped near a weedy section of a lake.

The fly is one of the more complex nymph patterns I have tied, but is actually quite easy to build with practice. I have tied a similar pattern which emulates a golden stonefly nymph using the same articulated body style.

Recipe 
Hook-    3XL Streamer #14
Thread-  Olive 6/0 
Tail-    Olive marabou
Ribbing- Olive thread
Body-    Olive zonker strip fur
Rear wingcase- Chartreuse swiss straw
Forward shank- Steel rod, .015" bent to shape
Eyes-    Mono eyes
Front wingcase- Chartreuse swiss straw
Thorax-  Olive dubbing, buggy
Instructions

1. Tie in a very short tail of olive marabou at the hook bend.
2. Make a dubbing loop with the thread at the base of the tail. This thread will be used to rib the body.
3. Tie in a small clump of rabbit fur from a zonker strip by the cut end at the base of the tail. Wrap the thread forward to behind the eye.
4. Carefully form a body by wrapping the rabbit fur up the shank. Roll the fur over the shank with your finger with constant pressure. Tie off and clip the excess.
5. Twist the dubbing loop into a rope and wrap forward over the body to form a rib. Tie off and trim.
6. The next step is to add the rear wingcase. Take a short piece of swiss straw and open it up so that it is a flat sheet. Fold it over in half three or four times, being sure to crimp the folds flat. Tie the straw ribbon in a little behind the eye pointing towards the hook bend. Fold the wingcase forwards so that about 1/8 inch is behind the tie-in point. Tie off with the thread and trim the excess. Crimp the fold point in the wingcase with needle-nosed pliers or tweezers.
7. Whip finish the thread in front of the wingcase. At this point you are done with the rear section of the fly.
8. Now the forward shank section needs to be added. Take a 1.25 inch length of .015" diameter steel wire and bend both ends over with round end needle-nosed pliers. At each end should be a loop with a straight section which overlaps the new shank. Optimally, the loop ends should be at 90 degree angles, and the overall length should be about 1/2 to 5/8" long. 9. Slide the loop at one end of the forward shank through the eye of the hook used for the completed rear body. Wrap thread over the entire forward shank to lock down the folded over wire. The cut wire ends will probably be somewhat sharp so be carefull not to cut your thread by using too tight wraps.
10. Tie on a set of mono eyes about 2/3 up the forward shank. Use figure-eight wraps to anchor the eyes in place.
11. Form the forward wingcase using swiss straw prepared in the same method as the rear wingcase. Tie in the straw pointing backwards at the rear end of the forward shank.
12. Dub a thick thorax behind the eyes using buggy olive dubbing.
13. Pull the straw backwards over the rear shank and fold it over so that it partially overlaps the rear wingcase previously built on the rear shank. Tie off the straw in front of the dubbing just behind the eyes. Do not trim the straw at this time. Crimp the straw fold.
14. Continue dubbing in front of the straw behind and in front of the eyes. Use enough dubbing to push the free end of the straw backwards.
15. Form another wingcase section over the newly dubbed section and tie off behind the forward loop, which will act as the eye for the finished fly. Trim any excess straw.
16. Whip finish.
17. Tease out the dubbing on the bottom of the forward shank to give the impression of legs in motion. After this the fly is complete.

John Shannon (jshannon@indirect.com)