2. In step 4: all the wiring that goes to all the emission controls including the wires connected to the old carburetor. NOTE: CJ models have the carburetor computer mounted behind the glove box. If you want to remove the computer by taking out the glove box, you can. If you do not want to remove the computer it will not hurt anything to leave it. Just be sure to cut the wires going through the firewall, pushing the wires in towards the computer and sealing up the hole with silicone.
3. In step 6: when removing the EGR tube, do not throw it away. You will need part of this later in the installation.
4. In step 7: when marking the PRESSURE and RETURN fuel lines, make sure you are correct. The pressure line is the larger of the two.
5. In step 8: Serpentine belt motors; do not remove the crank pulley (dampener) at this time. V-belt motors should have only the front pulley removed at this time, not the dampener.
6. In step 9: Before you start removing anything in this step, mark the location of the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap where it connects to the distributor. The #1 spark plug is the at the front of the motor. Remove all plugs. This will make the motor easier to turn. Make sure you are on the compression stroke when finding TDC. **THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT**. (see figure 3) Note the position of the DISTRIBUTOR. After removing the old distributor, refer to figure 4 in the assembly instructions. Looking down into the hole you just pulled the distributor out of, you will see the oil pump slot. With a screwdriver, position the oil pump slot at the 11 o'clock position. This will make the new distributor easier to install in the correct position. By now you have noticed the yellow indexing lock pin on the bottom of the distributor. Do Not remove this pin until the distributor has been installed. Install the distributor. After correct installation (figure 5), make sure the old dampener (still on motor) is at "0" on the timing tab. Remove the indexing lock pin from new distributor. It is very important that you remove the pin before you try to remove the old dampener from the motor.
7. Continue disassembly, as per instructions.
2. In Step 8: Installing the intake manifold: DO NOT over tighten the intake manifold bolts. Take your time installing these bolts. Make sure all the intake manifold cup washers are seated properly. Concerning the mounting of the power steering pump bracket; the manifold has been changed since the original instructions were printed, and now there is no place to bolt the power steering pump bracket on the intake manifold. Bolting this bracket to the intake manifold is not necessary, and will not cause any power steering pump mounting problems. For a cleaner look, you might want to trim the power steering bracket above the top bolt hole, eliminating the portion of the bracket that bolts to the intake manifold.
3.In step 12: Installing the fuel lines: CJ MODELS ONLY. If you
have the CJ model that has the pressure line running down the passenger
side of the Jeep, the best way is to route this line to a 5/16" fuel injection
hose.
a. Determine how much high pressure fuel injection hose you will
need, as per routing below.
b. Attach one end of the hose to the hard line that runs up the
passenger side from the fuel tank.
c. Carefully route the line forward toward the radiator.
d. Route the line under the radiator towards the drivers side
and rearward down the driver's side frame rail and up to the hard
pressure line coming off the fuel rail.
e. Attach 5/16" fuel line hose to the metal line using two small
hose clamps.
Make sure that your bends are not restricting any fuel flow and the
fuel lines are not routed near the exhaust.
4. In step 13: Installing the fuel pump, CJ MODELS ONLY. If your
CJ has the fuel line running down the passenger side of the vehicle,
jack up the rear of the Jeep and place on jack stands. From under the Jeep
looking toward the rear, notice a cross member in the frame where the skid
plate for the gas tank is attached. On the driver's side of the cross member,
notice the hard fuel lines coming through. The best way to mount the fuel
filter and pump is:
a. After locating hard fuel lines, remove small clamps securing
fuel line to to cross member and passenger side of frame rail. Once the
fuel line is free, use a small pipe cutter to cut the hard line close to
the bend on the rear of the passenger side frame rail. The outlet side
of the fuel pump attaches here with a length of fuel hose and clamps.
b. In the same manner, use a pipe cutter to cut the hard fuel
line at a location just before the hard line goes through the rear cross
member to the fuel tank. The inlet side of the fuel filter attaches here
with a length of fuel hose and clamps.
c. Attach the fuel filter using the clamp bolt at the center
of the cross member .
d. Attach the fuel pump using the clamp bolt at the rear of the
passenger side bolt hole. Make sure the flow arrows are all pointing toward
the front of the Jeep.
e. Connect the outlet side of the fuel filter to the inlet side
of the fuel pump using supplied fuel hose . Use clamps on both
connections.
NOTE: Inspect terminals on fuel pump. There is a positive and a negative terminal.
5. In step 14: Installing the charcoal canister. The kit supplies a mounting bracket for the charcoal canister. If the new charcoal canister fits better in the old bracket, just use the old bracket. Do not get frustrated trying to make the new bracket fit. Keep the canister as low as possible to leave space for mounting the PCM (Power train Control Module).
6. In step 15: Installing the PCM. In Figure 17 it shows the computer being mounted vertically. If the computer will not fit vertically you can mount it horizontally. If you mount the PCM horizontally, make sure the connector plugs into the bottom of the PCM.
7. In step 26: Installing the washer bottle. The washer bottle and bracket are supplied with the kit. You can mount this anywhere you would like, but the correct location is on the back side of the driver's side fender well. It is a tight fit.
8. In step 27: Installing air filter and bracket. The large flexible intake hose can be cut to the desired length. In some kits the flexible (CAT) hose is too long.
9. In step 28: The tachometer will work on '88-'90 Wranglers by connecting the gray or gray with a black tracer wire from the tach to the negative side of the coil. If you have questions about your Tach or Check Engine Light, please call Hesco, Inc.
CAUTION: If you have altered or rebuilt your engine and raised
the compression ratio too far above stock you may experience detonation
(ping). This can be solved by:
a. Have the timing retarded using a 'DRB-II', a handheld
electronic monitor/analyzer/adjustment device available at Hesco and at
Chrysler/Jeep Dealers. Make sure it's the 'DRB-II' and not the 'DRB-III',
which is non-adjustable.
b. Install an adjustable fuel regulator, available from Hesco
for $189.95
CAUTION: Installing headers, too large a camshaft, larger valves,
excessive porting, larger bore, or a combination of these CAN create a
detonation problem that cannot be eliminated using higher octane fuel or
an adjustment using a 'DRB-II'. You may not only need an adjustable fuel
regulator, but also larger injectors to compensate for the above.
If you find your idle rough after any of the above modifications,
try drilling a 1/16 inch hole in the throttle plate. Don't worry about
the aluminum shavings as they will be harmlessly consumed in the cylinders.
I hope this tip sheet helps you with your installation. Good luck.
If you have any questions of comments about your
installation call Hesco, Inc.
(205) 251-1472, ask for Jeff or email him at: hescosc@aol.com
For more information on Jeep performance parts email Bennie at hesparts@ix.netcom.com
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